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26 October - Kala Patthar and Downward

What a day! We got up at 4:00 a.m. to climb up to Kala Patthar lookout (about 200 meters above the Everest Base Camp) in order to see the sun rise over the Everest group of mountains. The sky was resonant with Himalayan stars, gazing down dispassionately...

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25 October - The Big Day!

25 October - The Big Day!

This was a major hiking day--starting at 7:30 from Lobuche, we walked along the massive Khumbu Glacier. The mountains seemed incredibly close, so clear is the air here. We started the hard climbing at about 8:30 or so, and as always, we walked in slow...

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24 October - The Khumbu Glacier Appears

We are now in a high tundra landscape: no trees or shrubs, just rock, scruffy grass and a few flowers, with the snow-capped Himalayas in the background. We set off from Pheriche early--another beautiful day--and after skirting a mountain stream, we began...

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23 October - An Acclimatization Day

Today--an acclimatization day--we took a four-hour hike up the spur of a mountain that overlooks Pheriche, pausing first to look at the memorial to all those who have been killed on Everest--a large cone that has been bisected into two halves, and which...

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