We left Namche Bazar in a light drizzle which soon turned to snow, but we soldiered on cheerfully, across a mountainside and past the stupa (memorial) to Tenzing Norgay and the Sherpas who helped Sir Edmund Hillary. Even in the mist and light snow, the landscape was as vast and compelling as ever. After lunch we climbed to the Tengboche Monastery 3860 meters altitude), where Everest expeditions traditionally receive their blessings. This Buddhist monastery, surely one of the most beautiful spots in the world, has partnered with the WWF to preserve the alpine plants that can be found in the region. After enjoying cake and coffee in the bakery there, we continued down to the tiny village of Deboche (3820 meters), where we had lodgings for the night. And there, finally, the clouds cleared, and. we we were treated to an amazing spectacle to the north-east: the Everest group of peaks--Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Everest itself--were lit up by the setting sun, and for half an hour we took pictures of these great beings of light. It was our first glimpse of Everest, and what a glimpse! After a dinner of macaroni and yak cheese we hit the sack at around 8 o'clock--our usual bedtime!