We are now in a high tundra landscape: no trees or shrubs, just rock, scruffy grass and a few flowers, with the snow-capped Himalayas in the background. We set off from Pheriche early--another beautiful day--and after skirting a mountain stream, we began climbing and eventually reached The Dhghla Pass (4830 meters altitude), home to a number of memorials (mainly stone cairns) to people who have died trying to climb Mt. Everest. These are the informal memorials to the climbers of all nationalities, and after spending a few reflective minutes reading the plaques, we continued on to the village of Lobuche (4910 meters). The mighty Khumbiu Glacier began to appear on our left, covered by an overburden of rocks and earth; it will keep us company until we reach the Everest Base Camp--tomorrow!